OCG 301 Lecture 11: Waves
Document Summary
Waves do not move the water mass. Waves of moving energy in which the wave form moves in one direction along the surface of the transmission medium. Waves in which particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes. Orbital waves are a type of progressive wave because the waveform moves forward. Ocean waves are classified by the disturbing force that creates them, the extent to which the disturbing force continues to influence them once they are formed, the restoring force that tries to flatten them by their wavelength. Free waves propagate across the ocean without the further influence of the disturbing force. Forced waves are maintained by their disturbing force. Restoring force is the dominant force that returns the surface to flatness after the wave has forme . Restoring force overcompensates and creates an oscillation. Wind waves are formed by the transfer of wind energy into water. They grow from capillary waves after their wavelength exceeds 1. 74cm.
