OCS 1005 Chapter : Waves And Tides

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Parts of wave: crest- highest part - particle of water is at top of orbital path, trough- lowest point between two crests - bottom of orbital path. As we move deeper away from surface, particle paths get smaller and smaller. 1/2 the wavelength - distance between 2 crest - depth of 5 meters - negligible movement. Orbital paths- very small transport of water. Disturbing and restoring forces of different wave types: disturbing force: causes waves, restoring force: brings water back to still, level original position. Smallest and largest waves: smallest are capillary waves - disturbing force is usually wind. Restoring force is cohesion of water molecules - hydrogen bonds- cohesion = restoring force for these waves. Wavelength: wind wave- wind- restoring force- is gravity, waves can be 60-100 m with wavelengths. Earthquake, movement of sea oor, volcanic eruption, landslide. Restoring force is gravity - wavelength can be 200 km between crests.

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