EOSC 114 Study Guide - Final Guide: Wind Wave, Wave Base, Wave Power

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Waves pass through a medium (air, water, rope, etc) The energy is transmitted through the medium, but the medium itself barely moves. Are generated by wind or by geological events. Water moves as waves pass; but net water motion is zero. Wavelength (l or ) = distance in meters for one full cycle (crest to crest or trough to trough) Wave height (h) = vertical distance from crest to trough. Amplitude (a) = h/2 (one-half the height) Steepness = h/l (height divided by wavelength) Period, t = time (in seconds) between successive cycles (or time it takes two crests to pass a. Frequency, f = number of cycles per 1 second (in hertz; 1hz = 1 cycle/s) Celerity, c = l/t, wavelength per time period (e. g meters per second). also called speed, m/s or. Of water created by the h-bonds between water molecules. Water molecules are glued to each other.

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