EARTH 4 Lecture Notes - Lecture 13: Seiche, Restoring Force, Wind Wave
Document Summary
Waves don"t move water with the wave but they move water as the wave goes by- water. L= wave length distance between two waves; crest to crest or trough to trough. T= period (constant)- how long it takes for an entire wave to pass by a single point; time required for wave crest at point a to reach point b. *stokes drift: transportation of small amounts of water through this mechanism; water particle at top of wave has bigger orbit but progressing just slightly, don"t make the full orbit, just transportation of small amounts of water. Disturbing force (creation)- force that disturbs water to create wave. Wavelength: relates to disturbing & restoring forces: disturbing force. Wind causes ripples in water & creates wind waves. Atmospheric pressure, storm surge: wave sloshes back & forth is called a seiche. Gravity: earth, sun & moon rotate flow pulled by gravity creates tides: propagative force.
