EARTHSS 3 Lecture 16: Lecture 16
10 Feb 2019
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Monday 26th february: be able to describe and draw wave features using appropriate terminology. Ocean waves: produced by friction of air moving across ocean surface. Internal waves: produced within ocean between water with different densities by tides, winds, turbidity. Splash waves: produced by mass falling into ocean ex:landslides. Tsunamis: created by lifting or dropping areas of seafloor. Wavelength: be able to explain and calculate wave speed, wave steepness, and predict whether a wave will break or not. Waves break when they hit a certain ratio of wave steepness is 1/7 or more. For shallow water, waves the shallower the water: Slower the wave travels: be able to identify factors that control wave size and describe conditions that will produce bigger or smaller waves. Wind creates pressure and stress as it blows across ocean surface which deform ocean surface. Once deformed wind interacts more with ocean surface so waves grow in height, length, and speed.
