OCS 1005 Lecture Notes - Lecture 12: Longshore Drift, Sediment Transport, Wave Power
16 Nov 2017
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Document Summary
Coasts are the boundary between the ocean and the land: their character is determined in part. By whether they are on an active or passive margin. And many, many more: sea level is always changing and has the greatest effect on coasts, long-term, widespread changes called eustatic changes. High-energy coasts: lots of wave action due to many storms and a long fetch. Ex: maine, british columbia, southern tips or sa and africa. Process; or surface, overtime erosion of waves eat away at the area leaves a deep sea cliff and leaving behind different panicles" fro(cid:373) harder rock. Refraction concentrates wave energy at headlines, create a smooth shoreline over time. Over time, erosional forces will create a smooth shoreline: depositional coast: steady or growing due to accumulation of sediments. Depositional coast: low energy coasts, protected and not subject to frequent, large waves. Winter, lots of rocks, sediment transport greater: coastal cells.
