EAS 1540 Lecture Notes - Lecture 6: Wind Wave, Wave Power, Waves
15 Dec 2016
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Lec 6 - fri 9/9 & mon 9/12 - ocean waves. Waves colliding - constructively, destructively, or mixed addition. Under certain exceptional circumstances only wavelength or only bottom depth will have the overriding dominant impact on wave speed a. b. Shallow water - bottom depth determines wave speed. Deep water waves - longer wavelengths move faster. Longer wavelength waves travel faster than shorter wavelength waves (deep water) Bending of shallow-water wave fronts due to the change in bottom depth. Focusing and defocusing of wave energy on headlands and bays. Waves strike at an angle, carries sediment across the shore. Obstructed by jetties and groins (human structures, especially industrial, that can starve parts of the coast of sediment) Wave energy is concentrated in a smaller space - higher height. Bottom slowed down by friction, top moves fast. Formed when large waves push water onto the beach and forms a jet of water. The currents are seldom wider than 10 m.
