EOSC 114 Lecture Notes - Lecture 6: Wind Wave, Wave Height, Wind Speed

• School: UBC
• Department: Earth and Ocean Sciences
• Course: EOSC 114
• Professor: Brett Gilley

Document Summary

The energy is transmitted through the medium, but the medium remains stationary. Wavelength (l): distance between two successive troughs or crests. Wave height (h): distance between trough and crest. Period (t): time taken to complete one cycle (time taken to cover wavelength) Celerity (c): l/t or lf (basically c = nee lambda) Describe the forces that generate and eliminate waves. Ocean waves caused by winds: => wind wave : Waves caused by atmospheric pressure changes (storm surge) => seiche : wavelength: 1000m. Waves caused by gravitational pull of the sun and the moon => tides: 20,000,000m (2 crore) Surface tension (wavelength < 1. 7cm => small waves) => capillary wave film like layer formed on the surface of water due h-h bonds. e. g. - small ripples caused by the wind. Gravity (wavelength > 1. 7cm => large waves): surface. Gravity waves: the weight of the crest in the water pulls it back down.