ERTH 2403 Lecture Notes - Lecture 8: Continental Shelf, Wave-Cut Platform, Turbidity
2 Sep 2016
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Periodic-short term changes in the height of ocean surface at particular places. D = < l shallow water wave. Disturbing forces: gravitational attraction of moon & sun & earth, rotation of the earth on its axis. Tide generating force is inversely proportional to cube of the distance between their centers. Sun 27 million times the moon (mass) but is 387 further. Laplace"s dynamic theory: real friction, continents. Earth larger/moon, center of mass is inside of earth = barycenter ~ 4700km from center of earth. Tractive forces: gravity: pulls earth and moon together. 2: from 2 water/tidal bulges on opposite sides of earth. V. high high tides and v. low low tides: neap tides b. i. Every two weeks 1st & 3rd quarter moon b. ii. Lower high tides and higher low tides b. iv. Tidal patterns: diurnal, one high tide and one low tide, semidiurnal, two high and two lows of equal value, mixed, semidiurnal unequal, coriolis effect, deflects tide wave crest b.
