GEOG 3 Chapter Notes - Chapter 10: Wave Tank, Surf Forecasting, Group Velocity
Document Summary
Evidence of their understanding of waves appears in the form of stick charts, or mattang, which were used to teach young sailors how to read patterns in the ocean swell. This knowledge enabled them to navigate across broad expanses of the open ocean using a technique called wayfaring. Unlike traditional forms of navigation, wayfaring relied on the skills of the navigator, who could discern the patterns and interactions of ocean swell in the vicinity of islands well beyond the horizon. By following these patterns, the navigator could successfully guide the canoe between islands separated by hundreds of miles. Together, they built the rst wave tank, a very long and narrow rectangular vessel for studying waves - circular motions. Surf forecasting, the prediction of wave conditions at a given location and time. In its simplest scienti c form, a wave is an expression of the movement or progression of energy through a medium.