CMST 2010 Chapter : CHAPTER 8
Document Summary
Chapter 8: discuss several different ways in which waves form. All waves begin as disturbances; they are formed due to a force called disturbing force. Waves are created when a simple rock is thrown into the water, when wind blows across the surface of the ocean, and the movement of fluids with different densities can create waves. No, waves consist a ratio of 1:7. Anything over that and the wave will break. wavelength (l), height (h), and wave steepness (h/l) as a wave moves across shoaling water to break on the shore. When a wave approaches the shoaling depths, they interfere with water particle movement at the base of the wave, causing the wave speed to decrease. When the waves speed decreases, the waves move closer to each other interrupting the wavelength causing them to decrease. Energy is lost with this occurrence, however the remaining wave energy must go somewhere thus wave height increases.
