ARTH 337 Lecture Notes - Lecture 6: Bonwit Teller, Jean Patou, Cloche Hat

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3 May 2019
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Combination / teddy / step-in / cami-knickers c. 1925. Hair ornaments & jeweled cloches for evening. Hair worn bobbed or pinned close to head. Hemlines shortest of decade right below knee. Bobbed hair increasingly worn, standard by 1929. "a paris spring wardrobe by patou: selected and. Ad, april 1, 1927 issue of vogue. Evening /day wear designed by jean patou. Theme of bird in flight, movement as well as physical attributes. Bird in space, inspired abstraction intended to capture the essence of flight . Sears ads (left): dresses: (1927-1928) (right): coats: (1928-1929) Fashionable dress accommodates & accentuates movement (left): coco chanel. Silk chiffon with silk fringe (right): edward molyneux (1926/1927) Maidenform bra & support undergarments originated as accessory to improve fit of dresses separately. Cups supported & conformed to breasts, didn"t downplay them as had been boyish form style. Corset becomes girdle (left): barclay custom corsets. Pajamas for loungewear: 1925, mccall lingerie pattern illustrations including embroidery transfers: embroideries.

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