EPS C82 Lecture Notes - Lecture 21: Pacific Ocean, Wind Wave, Waves
3 Dec 2017
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Created by a disturbing force and subject to a restoring force. Behave differently depending on if they"re in shallow or deep water. Relative to their own size (if tiny wave and shallow water, wave does not feel the bottom vs. big wave and shallow water, wave feels the bottom and breaks) Frequency: number of wave crests passing point a or point b each second. Wavelength of wave: distance between two crests (point a and b) Height of wave: distance between trough and crest. Period: time requried for wave crest at point a to reach point b. Deeper ocean faciliates easier swimming (beijing olympics pool deeper >reduce bottom friction and allow for new world records?) Wave classifications (wave type, typical wavelength, disturbing force, restoring force - see slides_ Capillary > wind > seche > tsunami > tides. C=1. 25 (square root l) or c (square root (gl/2pi)
