EESC1168 Lecture Notes - Lecture 16: Rogue Wave, 2004 Indian Ocean Earthquake And Tsunami, Gravity Wave
22 Feb 2017
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Document Summary
Water is displaced, then is pulled back towards its initial position by gravity. It overshoots, falling below the starting height, and is brought back up again. Any disturbance that temporarily mounds up water causes a surface gravity wave. Amplitude: height of the wave above or below the resting surface. Period: time between arrival of waves (seconds) Frequency: how many waves pass a point in 1 time unit (1/seconds) A wind wave occurs when wind drags along the water surface, eventually forming a small ripple. The wind pushes on the ripple, causing it to grow larger. Wind wave characteristics depend on the time the wind has blown, the distance the wind is blowing over, and how strong the wind is. The wave oscillations are greatest on the surface, and decrease exponentially with depth. Fish and scuba divers generally would not notice these waves. After the wind stops blowing, the waves remain.
