EOSC 114 Lecture Notes - Lecture 1: Frequency, Breccia, Shocked Quartz
16 Oct 2017
School
Department
Course
Professor
Document Summary
Very large scale, permanent winds that blow over the ocean produce surface currents, which transport both matter (water) and energy. Winds that blow occasionally or over smaller areas produce waves, which transport energy in the direction of the wind. Technically, we de ne waves as the mechanical expression of energy: wave anatomy. The gure below is a schematic diagram of an ideal wave and its anatomy: wave energy. The energy transported by waves is related to the wave height, h. this simple correlation applies only to deepwater waves. The important point to know is that for most of the waves in the open ocean, waves with great heights transport more energy than waves with shorter heights. Usually, though not all the time, waves with great heights also have long wavelengths. Basic wave classification is based on: generating force- force that adds energy to the water. Gravity of sun and moon generates tides.
