HECOL476 Study Guide - Midterm Guide: Fabric Structure, Electromagnetic Spectrum, Microanalysis
16 Sep 2016
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Textile Degradation 10/11/2015 10:55:00 AM
Observations and Methods of Analysis
Textile Analysis
• Determines what you’re looking at
• Assesses the condition of the textile and determine causes of degradation
• Textiles exist on a preservation to degradation continuum
• New textiles have a life expectancy
• Most clothing has a moderate life expectancy
• Long life expectancy
o High initial investment; upholstery, drapery and carpeting
o To increase life expectancy, don’t use the textile frequently
Definition
• Wear: Broad term including physical forces in use and care
• Aging: Slow degradation from naturally occurring processes in the material over time.
Continuous and takes place even when the textiles are not in use
• Degradation: Encompasses aging but can also happen very quickly when exposed to harmful
conditions
Textile Degradation
• A deterioration of mechanical properties
o Reduced tear/tensile strength
o Loss of extensibility, resilience and elasticity
o Reduced abrasion resistance
• Colour change; fading or discoloration
• Change of hand; stiffness or loss of body
• Loss of performance factors ie. Water repellency
• Development of odor
• Tackiness, blistering, cracking
Changes to Specific to Use & Cleaning
• Colour change, shrinkage, permanent stretching, creasing, changes to surface appearance
(pilling), permanent soiling and development of holes
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Examination & Identification
• Identify the fabric structure, yarn structure, fibre and finishes
• Questions that help us understand causes of degradation
o Category/name of textile
o Its function
o Construction of the textile and product
▪ Naked eye, magnifying glass, or microscope
• Documentation is an important part of textile analysis
• Fibre Identification
o Dullness/Luster
o Yarn Structure
o Weave
o Garment Structure: pattern draft, grain direction, design, colours, embellishment
o Purpose: how it is used, how it is cleaned, what forces are involved in cleaning, how it is made
Selecting an Analytical Technique
• Each method has different strengths & weaknesses
o Some techniques are better for organics, some for nonorganic
o Detection Limit: varying degrees of noise inhibit identification
• Each method has different effects on the sample
o Destructive vs. non-destructive
o Bulk vs. microanalysis
• Often >1 technique can be used to answer a specific question
• Each method varies in the results they produce
o Qualitative vs Quantitative
o Numerical Value
o Plot vs. Graph
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Main Analytical Techniques
1. Imaging: emphasis on surface/interior of textile
2. Elemental (Whole atoms & Ions)
o Techniques characterize atoms/groups of atoms by atomic mass/time of flight
o Different methods of getting ions off the surface
o Alternatively, nucleus is excited and emits excess energy when returning to less excited states
o Distinguishes elements through periodic table
o Identification through reference spectra of known materials
3. Spectrometric (Electronic structure of atoms)
o Material is irradiated with some part of electromagnetic spectrum
o Different atoms & molecular groups respond to radiation in different ways or at different
wavelengths
o Radiation is reflected in characteristic ways of each wavelength
o Identification through comparison with reference samples
4. Separation
o Methods by which complex materials are separated into constituent components
o Separation happens to do different rates that materials of differing affinity pass through certain
filtering media resulting in differing retention times
o Other analyses often identify the separated materials
5. Thermal Analysis
o Regular heating of sample plus measurement of specific properties (transitions/expansions)
*Batcheller Reading
find more resources at oneclass.com
find more resources at oneclass.com
Document Summary
Definition: wear: broad term including physical forces in use and care, aging: slow degradation from naturally occurring processes in the material over time. Continuous and takes place even when the textiles are not in use: degradation: encompasses aging but can also happen very quickly when exposed to harmful conditions. Textile degradation: a deterioration of mechanical properties, reduced tear/tensile strength. Loss of extensibility, resilience and elasticity: reduced abrasion resistance, colour change; fading or discoloration, change of hand; stiffness or loss of body, loss of performance factors ie. water repellency, development of odor, tackiness, blistering, cracking. Changes to specific to use & cleaning: colour change, shrinkage, permanent stretching, creasing, changes to surface appearance (pilling), permanent soiling and development of holes. Identify the fabric structure, yarn structure, fibre and finishes: questions that help us understand causes of degradation, category/name of textile. Fabric abrasion: flat/surface, edge: occurs at folded edges of fabric, flex: bending or flexing within the textile.
